The Importance of Anti-Oxidants

As we age, our skin and our bodies are more prone to damage from free radicals.  Free radicals are atoms or groups of atoms with an odd number of electrons and can be formed when oxygen interacts with certain molecules. They start a chain reaction and can damage important cellular components like cell membranes, DNA, etc. Cells will then die or not function correctly when this occurs.  

FREE RADICALS = BAD GUYS

Free radicals don't only contribute to aging, they contribute to many diseases, even cancer.  Ultra-violet rays, pollution, cigarette smoke, alcohol and what we eat as well as stress are huge contributing factors that cause free radicals. 

How do we rid ourselves from free radicals?  

ANTIOXIDANTS = GOOD GUYS

An antioxidant is a molecule that inhibits the oxidation of other molecules (loss of electrons or increase in oxidations state).  They protect cells by neutralizing external forces such as damage from the sunlight (the importance of using sunscreen on a daily basis), pollution, wind and temperature. 

Antioxidants also protect cells from internal factors such as emotions, metabolism and excess oxygen.  

The most common antioxidants are Vitamins A, C, E, and beta carotene.  Consuming these vitamins will assist in skin repair and strengthen the blood vessels.  

When it comes to our skin, antioxidants can help to protect your skin from the effects of the sun which are damaging.  They protect the skin from the inside out.  

Vitamins A, C and E are particularly essential in skin care. Vitamins A and C encourage cell and tissue growth and help the body repair itself. 

Skin is constantly shedding and regrowing cells and antioxidants are helpful in an anti-aging regimen because they help fight fine lines and wrinkles [WedMD].

I will go into some products that I have discovered that aid in the anti-aging process with the use of concentrated Vitamins A, C, E in topical form in the next few postings.  

Favorite Oils for Anti-Aging Skin Care

These are my favorite oils.  I switch them around but I have my favorites. 

Apricot Kernel oil – This oil absorbs into the skin quickly and does not feel greasy therefore all skin types can use this oil.  It is rich in Omega 6, which helps hydrate and nourish skin.  The Vitamins A & E encourage collagen production to help in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Sweet Almond Oil – Contains Vitamins E & K to help skin regenerate and maintain its elasticity as well as promote better circulation.  In addition, it is a UV blocker.  

Avocado Oil – the only thing this oil has against it is that it is very thick.  It is rich in Vit A & E and contains a plant considered collagen boosting – sterolins.  I recommend use of this oil only at night because it is so thick and should be mixed with another carrier oil as it can be pretty sticky.  This is one oil I use very sparingly.

Argan oil – Another favorite for skin care.  This oil works wonders to hydrate skin, restore elasticity and face fine lines and wrinkles.  

Rosehip Seed Oil – This oil has the highest concentration of natural Vitamin A (Retin-A?).  It reduces deep wrinkles, fades fine lines and boosts the rate of growth in new cells as well as increase collagen production therefore healing the skin.  It contains Omega 6 & Omega 3 helpful for the elasticity and appearance of skin.  It is lightweight and absorbs into the skin quickly.  

Marula Oil – contains high levels of anti-oxidants which include Vitamin C and Vitamin E as well as essential amino acids and flavonoids that help in cell renewal and resist the environmental effects that are damaging. It is rich in Omega 6 and Omega 9 that moisturize and improves the elasticity of the skin.  It absorbs into the skin easily and has a light and non-greasy texture making it the perfect oil for anti-aging skin and can be used by all skin types. 

Coconut Oil – I’ve saved this oil for last. This oil is full of Vitamin E, a powerful anti-oxidant.  It not only reduces the signs of aging but it helps in strengthening the skin against cellulite and fade stretch marks.  It is also known to help eliminate KP (keratosis pilaris, a common skin condition that causes rough patches and small bumps on the arms, thighs, cheeks and buttocks).  It is a natural sunscreen, can be used in treating certain skin infections and not to mention all the benefits of using it in your daily diet and in cooking.  

There are more oils out there on the market that are can be used either alone or as ingredients in anti-aging skin products.  I use most of the oils listed above interchangeably and will add a drop mixed in with either my Clarins Lotus oil at night or I mix it into my serum in the morning but my favorites are Rosehip Seed, Marula and Coconut oil. 

An oil I have yet to try is Dilo oil, a skin regenerating oil that is part of the Kate Somerville skin care line.  Stay tuned.   

I can’t reiterate enough how important it is to study your skin day and night.  Know its needs and how it reacts to certain products. 

Oil on oily skin? - OH MY!!!!

So many to chose from...and why would you even THINK about using oil on oily skin?????

As you may know by now, as a teenager my skin was extremely oily.  It never had that healthy glow, it was just downright SHINY!  I carried a powder compact with me wherever I went.  Imagine to my surprise when in the early 70's the woman behind the Clarins counter studied my skin (flawless skin back then, I was in my 20's but oily nevertheless) and she "prescribed" my new skin care regimen that I still follow to this day with a few added bonuses.  

A foaming cleanser, a toner, moisturizer and (GASP!) a skin oil. A skin oil? Really? Seriously? You're joking, right?

It was called Lotus Face Oil and made from 100% Plant Extracts: Rosewood oil, geranium oil, sacred lotus oil (a holy experience), hazelnut oil and maybe one or two other oils.  My instructions were clear, cleanse, tone and put several drops of the oil into the palm of my hand and rub my hands together to warm the oil.  I was to place my hands over my face and press the oil into the skin.  I felt I had died and gone to heaven! The scent!!! 

I looked in the mirror. My face was surely oily now and to top it off, I was supposed to add a moisturizer to this?  Trusting the woman with the red blazer (and flawless skin, I must add), I proceeded to slather on the moisturizer and went to bed. It couldn't get any oilier.  

My surprise came the next morning when I ran my fingers over my face and felt a new softness but more importantly, I wasn't oily.  My skin drank in the oil overnight and left my skin smooth and subtle, dare I say - dewy.  What miracle was this and why am I telling you?  

Fast forward to 2015 and in my early 60's and I still use Lotus Face Oil at night before I go to bed and I really believe it is responsible (plus genetics, Retin-A and some other stuff I'll go into at a later date) for the condition of my skin.  Yes, I have wrinkles and lines but my skin looks nothing like that of some friends and I'm very happy with it.  

So what is this obsession with oils nowadays?  Are we just rediscovering what some skin care companies knew all along and find ourselves in the process reinventing the way we look at face oils?  

What exactly do these new and improved skin oils do?  Oils provide free radical protection, allow anti-aging creams to sink deeper and plump the skin. Bear in mind that many moisturizers contain a bit of oil but the oil in and of itself is applied in its purest form. Oils are more hydrating than a moisturizer and absorb into the skin very quickly. 

Oils can be used either in your morning routine or evening or both. Because I tend to have an oily T-zone, I only use one drop which I mix in with my serum in the morning before applying my makeup. The oil absorbs into the skin leaving no residue behind.  

Some oils have added ingredients such as antioxidants which reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.  I will go into the different natural skin care oils and their benefits in my next blog (stay tuned).

I encourage you to comment below and feel free to ask any questions related to beauty.  

I have developed two skin oils for the face and neck and offer them in my Etsy shop: 
www.etsy.com/shop/nynativebeauty.   

Toners vs. Astringents

I've been away for a bit, but I'm back with a question a lot of people ask me.  What is the difference between toners and astringents?

In a past blog post, I mentioned using an astringent in my teenage years. Bonne Bell Ten-o-Six and Sea Breeze are two astringents I have used.   

Let's start with a general rule of thumb. Super oily skin requires an astringent; super dry skin requires a toner.  Note that skin changes with age, hormones and weather.  

Toners are usually water based and for the most part alcohol free.  They cleanse away any residue left after makeup removal.  Most of the toners out on the market today leave your skin feeling refreshed and rebalance your skin's pH.  Toners are basically mild and some even help to shrink pores. 

Toners may contain glycolic acid which can help in further exfoliating oils and dirt.  Get familiar with ingredients so that you know if a toner is right for you. I use a toner on my combination skin with great success and love spray on toners although there is nothing more pleasing than to use a cotton pad with toner and see that last trace of makeup being removed. The skin will be clean and balanced ready for your serums and moisturizers. As for storage, nothing beats putting on a toner that is cold.  I store mine in the refrigerator.  I also use a spritz of cold rosewater as a toner from time to time and my skin loves it. 

Astringents have differences that must be considered. They are usually recommended for oily skin and many are alcohol based or contain some form of chemical. They fight bacteria and are helpful to acne prone skin. After using an astringent, the skin may have a tingling, tightening feeling. Like its cousin, the toner, it also removes makeup residue.  

Astringents are not to be abused, instead of helping they can cause damage as the skin may begin to produce more oil than before to protect itself from the daily stripping away of natural oils.   

If one has combination skin, you may want to try alternating a toner and an astringent but bear in mind that the astringent may be too harsh for the drier parts of your face. It can leave your overall skin dry and irritated. Again, I encourage you to read your labels and become familiar with the ingredients that are beneficial to your type of skin.  

Astringents were a detrimental part of my skin care as I used to have excessively oily skin.  Age and hormones will play a major part in your skin care routine. Study the changes in your skin and make changes accordingly.  

As for pricing. More is not better or worse. Chose what works for you. I find that most astringents are priced modestly whereas every skin care and makeup line out there offer toners. The pricier the line, the pricier the toner. See a dermatologist if you feel that skin care is confusing. 

The most important part is to know your ingredients and study your skin.  It will definitely tell you what is working, what is not and what it is lacking.  

Basic Skin Care 101 - All Cleansers are not the same!

...and so, over the years I've learned a thing or two about skin care.  Some good, some bad but all educational enough to be able to share with others.

There are three basic "musts" in skin care as well as some rules that should NOT ever, ever  be broken!  Cleansing, moisturizing and wearing sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun's damaging rays.  Everything else we do is an added bonus. Let's start with a clean face.

Facial cleansers come in several different forms.

Creams, Lotions, Washes

OR

Oils or oil based

OR

Bars of Soap

They also come in every conceivable price imaginable and in an effort to feel feminine or pretty, we indulge ourselves from time to time in very expensive cleansers.  A cleanser should leave your skin soft and supple - not tight.  (Remember the Dove soap?) It should remove impurities, grime (yes, ladies, we get dirt on our faces too!) and sweat.  If your daily makeup routine does not consist of much, you can get away with washing your face with a soap that does not dry your skin.  

As for the make up wearers - beware!  We have a lot more to remove and rule #1 in skin care: NEVER, EVER GO TO BED WITH YOUR MAKEUP ON!!!  I don't care how tired you are, how late it is or how drunk you are at 4 in the morning!  More on that, later on!

So back to cleansers and the wide array available today.  The main function of a cleanser is to CLEAN your skin and pores.  Not all cleansers are created equal and our skin changes from year to year.  As we get older, the cleansers used in your 20's no longer do the job.  Makeup and dirt creep into your lines and wrinkles and rather than play a tug of war on your skin, the best approach is to change your cleanser.  Also, skin becomes drier with age.  

I used soap to clean my face in my 20's and 30's.  Soap no longer removes my makeup as well as it did and my skin doesn't like soap any more.  My skin becomes very tight after using soap, even the ever loving Dove soap.  

My suggestion is to experiment.  Sephora and major department stores will gladly give out samples that you can try at home until you find that one cleanser that does the job without drying out your skin.    

My favorite eye makeup remover is Bioderma Sensibio H2O.  It is soft and does the job beautifully, removing even the toughest waterproof mascara. I strongly recommend it. Easy removal without tugging and pulling.  I've never found anything that comes close to the way this product removes eye makeup.

Price does not mean a cleanser is better or worse.  It is simply a matter of what gets the job done on your skin type whether oily, dry or combination.    

I also remove my makeup and then cleanse my skin.  I find that the two step process works better for me.  I use my Clarisonic every night and even after removing my makeup thoroughly, it will find more residue and makeup left behind.  

The important thing is to make sure all the makeup along with the dirt that accumulates during the day is removed every single night and that whatever method you use, leaves your skin soft and subtle to the touch - not dry.  

Skin regenerates itself while we sleep.  Makeup and dirt will prevent the skin from going through its regeneration process.  Cleansed skin will remain more youthful and soft.  Find the right cleanser and your skin will thank you for it!

You've Come a Long Way, Baby - Third and final installment of my saga!

Due to personal circumstances, I put college on hold for a while and went to work right out of high school.  Suddenly, I was took subway and worked in an office in the Garment Center in Manhattan's Midtown.

Skin care, make up and glamour had to become a priority in my life.  So armed with $100, I set out on an adventure that followed me through my 20's, 30's, 40's, 50's and...dare I say it...very early 60's. There is a saying that we cannot prevent the inevitable but we can certainly prolong the inevitable.  How do we do it?  How do we fight Mother Nature, Gravity and the Environment?  We didn't know about free radicals back then.

Genetics plays a big part and if you look around at your family, you can pretty much guess how well you will age.  Most of my life, I had oily skin, the kind that was impossible to control.  Over time, I was grateful for the oil in my skin because as we grow older, skin becomes drier.

I met a woman at one of the big skin care and makeup lines at Macy's who explained the importance of clean skin.  I shivered as I remembered my experience with Noxzema.  In the same way that an artist prepares his canvas with gesso and other ingredients to get the perfect surface on which to paint a masterpiece; we, too, must prepare the canvas or skin so that makeup looks flawless and complimentary to our natural beauty as we age.

Several years later, I visited Saks Fifth Avenue and was drawn to a skin care counter where beautiful women dressed in red and promoted products from France with plant extracts as their primary ingredient.  The scent of these products alone produced a feeling of beauty and wellness.  That day I graduated to a slightly higher end skin care line than the one I was using and over the years continue to use as part of my skin care regiment.  Clinique and Clarins products have remained constant staples in my life through ups and downs.

I now can spend more money on my skin care and mix and match many products that give me the anti-aging results that must be religiously, meticulously and continuously if we are going to "prolong" this process called aging.  I will share with your the results of my "experiments" with you over time.

I urge all young women to start their skin care early; it pays off in the end.  But...stay away from that Noxzema around the eyes!

You've Come a Long Way, Baby - Part Two

...and if I thought my Noxzema experience was the end of my skin care routine, it wasn't.  Around the age of 15, tiny bumps began to emerge all over my face.  "Teenage Acne" caused by hormones called androgens and increased during puberty.  Of course, hormones were wreaking havoc in my young life in more ways than one.

Dermatologists existed back then but most of my friends used over the counter medications and washes.  My mother marched down to the local pharmacy (no Walgreen's, Rite Aid or CVS in the neighborhood) to talk to the pharmacist who was the equivalent of today's primary care physician, Web MD or Google.  We left the drug store with several remedies.

A soap for cleansing the skin to use twice a day.

I loved the ad as it was a sign of the times and gave me "new hope" for the acne and condition that made my face look like a deep fryer.  You could see me coming a mile away from the shine. 

After washing my face, I would apply a lotion (a primitive version of today's toners) that burned like hell and was really an astringent.  If it was supposed to correct the ph of my skin, it was killing it.  

Clearasil also made a balm that was applied on certain "tough" pimples.  Between Clearasil, a concoction my mother applied to my ugliest pimples made out of toothpaste and apple cider vinegar (don't ask - more burn - no pain, no gain, right?) and a prayer, I hoped to wake up with porcelain skin with the touch of a baby's bottom...fat chance.  Sometimes my mother suggested I use Witch Hazel in place of the other astringent from time to time. 

This meticulous skin care routine came with a specific impossible direction: do not pick or squeeze your blemishes or it would cause scarring.  This was probably the most important part of my skin care routine but at  the age of 15, you just HAD to squeeze that pimple to get the gunk out before your friends saw it.  Indeed, it was important. I know many who squeezed a bit too hard and left a scar.

For the next three years, I religiously took care of my skin in this fashion with great discipline - no moisturizer, alcohol based toners to "disinfect" and an occasional salve on a stubborn pimple.

We've Come a Long Way, Baby - Part One

My first experience with skin care came when I was about five years old.  My mother used a "special" soap designated for her exclusive use.  It smelled heavenly and with an odd shape about it.

I was mesmerized as she would pat her face with a white cotton square she made herself.  She would move on to her foundation and rouge, yes, it was rouge in those days.  Small round tins with dark pink or red pigment she put on her cheeks.  The ever present eyebrows with a dark brown pencil and lipstick.  No moisturizer, sunscreen, nada.  Horror of horrors!

After dinner, she would resort to Pond's Cold Cream to remove the makeup.  Pond's began selling in the 1840's in a shop in New York and is still sold to this day.  Pond's had a thick consistency and she used a tissue to remove it. To this day, it's still a bitch to remove!  It does remove the make up though.   

At some point and I don't remember when or even if it she used it only periodically, I saw her use another "cleanser" - Noxzema.  Again, this was a product that went back to the early 1900's.  I think the use of Noxzema became more popular in the 60's when it was known for the slogan..."take it off, take it all off".  Pretty racy stuff back then!

I began my personal skin care about the same time I discovered The Beatles, music and boys.  Every morning, I used the "heavenly, odd shaped soap" which did indeed leave my skin soft.  At night, I locked myself in the bathroom to "draw" eyebrows on my face, put lipstick on and the bright pink rouge that made me look more like a juvenile streetwalker than the elegant makeup my mother sported.  I would then proceed to remove the make up with...you guessed it...Pond's Cold Cream. There is something about the smell that brings back the best of memories to this day.  

My skin care regimen was short lived.  For six months, I religiously had a "skin care" routine.  I began to feel grown up and looked forward to the day in which I could wear real makeup to go out.  in public. For the moment, though, it was limited to those evening moments when I locked myself in the bathroom to "paint" myself.  My mother eventually added another component to her makeup routine - Maybelline Mascara - CAKE mascara. 

A dry, black block of pigment (God only knows what it was made of).  You would wet the brush and then slide it against the block and a thick liquid was formed or a pretty thin one if you used too much water.  This was used to brush your eyelashes in an upward motion much like the mascaras of today.  

The first time I tried mascara was the end of my "skin care" for quite some time.  That night, I was going to remove my "makeup" with the pleasant smelling cream in the blue cobalt jar that my mother even used effectively on our sunburns. Being a young 13 year old and the fact that consumers didn't read labels back then, I had no way of know what ingredients were in the blue jar. Noxzema contained camphor, menthol, phenol and eucalyptus.

As I dipped my finger into the jar, the smell filled the room with the dreaded concoction that would cause me to end my "skin care" for the next five years.  Noxzema did indeed remove the mascara but as the ingredients began to seep into my eyes and cause me to put Chubby Checker to shame with my dance moves...I decided skin care was not worth the pain.  

After using numerous towels to "come clean", I ran out of the bathroom with red swollen eyes and blackened streams slipping down my cheeks.  I have never owned a jar of Noxzema since...my days of makeup and skin care were over...

The Mystery of the Universe

One of my make-up gurus (and I have many) Bobbi Brown says that the Secret of the Universe is concealer.  I agree and especially if you want a flawless look, color corrector, concealer AND a good (not obvious) foundation is essential, of course all over an eye cream. 

But...the greatest mystery in the universe are two strips of hair above the eye (according to Wikipedia - don't quote me) that prevent moisture, sweat and rain from getting into the eyes.  No too sure about that.  Have gotten plenty of sweat seep into may eyes in the hot humid weather of South Florida.

Eyebrows have gone through major (remember the pencil thin look of the 70's?) and minor changes.  From Clara Bow's look in the 20's to the bushy, natural look sported by Julia Roberts in the 90's and the perfect eyebrow look that became my envy - Brooke Shields.  

For decades cosmetic methods have been developed to alter their size, shape and look.  Hair was either added or removed, the color change or a change in the position of the eyebrow altogether. 

I wanted beautiful, thick eyebrows.  I wanted to learn how to color them in naturally and not look like Pagliacci.  Alas, my eyebrows were sparse, thin, unruly.  I would never have that perfect look.  

I searched for someone to shape my eyebrows without the usual waxing or threading methods because I use Retin-A.  One pull of the hot wax and not only does my hair come off the brow bone, but so does my skin.  I needed someone who would hand tweeze, a rarity nowadays.  

Fast forward to an eyebrow guru, I encountered..... Turns out, I had been doing it all wrong!!!  Whereas I thought I didn't have any eyebrows, she found them for me!!!!!

On my first visit, we sat down and she was so full of excellent tips and information, I wanted to jot them down.  (Luckily, in spite of my age, I remembered most of them.)

Perfect eyebrows can be had, ladies!!!  It is a learning process! She revealed the mystery of the universe.  You outline your top eyebrow with four lines - from the - tip to the arch, then from the arch to the end.  You do the same underneath the eyebrow and fill in the lines  BAM! A V8 moment - instant eyebrows.  

If you have never been to an eyebrow expert that can point you in the right direction I encourage you to find one and keep up you eyebrow care.  Of course, if you are in the area of South Florida and Miami, I encourage you to call for an appointment, you won't be disappointed!    http://www.beautyandbrowlounge.com

More on eyebrow care soon.